By Lee & Lou Havlicek.
Lee & Lou Cook.
Ramp season! One of the most fleetingly delicious seasons of the year, though it’s really more of a moment than a season. Every year we wait and keep a keen eye out, and when we spot them, we hit the ground running. We put ramps in salads and grain bowls and mac and cheese. We make spaghetti with ramps and chilies. We eat goat cheese and ramp grilled cheeses. We fry them up and make bruschetta and, honestly, just eat them with some olive oil and flaky salt, hot and grassy and garlicky right out of the pan. They’re spectacular: more delicate in flavor than garlic or spring onions, more leafy green than scallions or leeks. If you’ve read Heat, you know how Mario Batali describes them to Bill Buford. If you haven’t, let’s just say he likes them a lot.
Ramps start showing up in markets around mid-late March. They hang around for a few weeks, and while they’re sitting pretty in farmers market bins and, increasingly, grocery store produce aisles, we’re buying and cooking and eating and starting again. By the time the really warm weather starts coming around, they’re gone.
But for now, they’re still around—not for long, though, so run out while they last, grab them by the bouquet-ful, and get cooking. You can toss them in anything where you might use garlic, scallions, leeks, or onions during all those other rampless months of the year. Serve them alongside meat or fish, add them to soups and vegetable/rice/pasta dishes, or just eat them right up with good cheese and bread.
This week, we decided to toss them on top one of our favorite go-to, seat-of-your-pants, we-have-to-eat-in-the-next-20-minutes-or-else-we’ll-miss-the-movie meals: the frittata. Satisfying, delicious, and a fantastic way to clean out your fridge, frittatas are like pasta in that: a) you can throw just about anything you want in them and you’ll get a great meal, b) you most likely have all the ingredients you need to make a great one in your kitchen right now, and c) you get maximum taste points for minimal effort exerted. It’s also pretty hard to make a frittata that isn’t a looker. Put a frittata, some crusty bread, and maybe a salad or some fruit on your table and you’ve got one gorgeous meal…
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